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Date Published: 13/10/2026

Murcia loses more than 400 traditional butchers and fishmongers in a decade

Independent food shops are fighting back as supermarket shopping and rising costs put family businesses under growing pressure

Traditional butchers and fishmongers are becoming an increasingly rare sight across the Region of Murcia, with more than 400 specialist premises disappearing over the past ten years.

Official figures show that the number of shops and market stalls selling meat and meat products fell from 1,542 in 2014 to 1,218 in 2024, a reduction of 21%. Fishmongers have been hit even harder. Their number dropped from 384 to 284 over the same period, a fall of 27%.

The Federation of Commerce of the Region of Murcia, Coremur, says the decline reflects changing shopping habits, with more people choosing packaged food from supermarkets and large retail chains.

“Many people are more concerned with saving a couple of euros, even if they know what they’re buying isn’t the same,” said Jesús López Pay, president of Coremur. “Everyone knows that the products offered in these establishments are different from what you’ll find in a large supermarket. It’s a different quality.”

He also points to the mounting costs faced by small businesses, including taxes, rent, electricity and water. Staff absences can create another serious burden, particularly for shops with only one or two employees.

The figures for registered businesses show an even sharper contraction. The number of sole traders in the meat sector fell from 628 to 381, while fish-related businesses dropped from 215 to 121. Some towns now have no fishmongers left.

Around 85% of the businesses that disappeared were sole traders with no employees, or with just one or two workers. Coremur says the decline has continued without a recovery following the 2020 pandemic crisis.

Those still in business are trying to adapt. Some now take orders online, use WhatsApp or email, and offer prepared meals and artisanal products alongside fresh produce.

Juan Antonio Durán, known as El Chujas, runs a third-generation fish business in Cehegín and also chairs Amipemur, the regional association representing fresh and frozen fish retailers. He delivers seafood to homes and restaurants, while prepared portions such as grilled octopus, sea bream and sea bass have become part of his offer.

“Large shopping centres and supermarkets, like Mercadona, are eating into our market share, so we have no choice but to find ways to offer different, top-quality products,” he said.

Durán estimates that hospitality businesses now account for 60% to 70% of his sales. He buys fresh fish from the market every night, but says customers do not always appreciate the difference between farmed and wild fish.

“I have two young children, but with the way the business is going, I doubt either of them will continue in the trade. It’s not worth it with the effort it requires,” he said.

Image: Yuval Zukerman/Unsplash

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